router table part two. The fence.

Here I make the split fence. It's main components are made from 4mm plate and a piece of 40/80 extrusion. It's easy to adjust and remove, the underside is covered in a semi slippery plastic to prevent metal on metal scuffing and scratching.

Music by:
Parasail by Silent Partner.
Hers by Graffiti Mechanism.
Ersatz Bossa by John Deley and the 41 Players.
Bet on it by Silent Partner.
Soul and Mind by E's Jammy Jams.

My website. http://www.stillthinking.com.au

See more here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=696cjsKdTqM

Wish to know ways to make use of a frouter table fence? Below are pointers to obtain one of the most from your router table.

You do not need a miter network. Normally, you move your work along the fencing. The fencing should be square to the miter network if using a miter network. Why go to that difficulty?

You could develop a jig to move along the Fencing. This automatically aligns the wood to obtain a square cut. You could make adjustment in profile and deepness of cut. A Router Lift makes this easy.

A high quality frouter table fence fencing reduces dust collection. Utilize your Router Table and also Fence for simplicity and ease!

You should never ever place your job in between the router and also the fence bit. That is simply asking for trouble.

Usually, you move the timber from right to left (when considering the fence from the front). That is an anti-climb cut. You make almost all cuts by doing this.

If very mindful, you can go a short distance in the contrary instructions. Yet you must hold on limited to avoid kickback and/or injury. This climb cut gives cleaner edges, yet you need to only try it after a lot of experience.

Only do less than 15% of your job this way. You must only utilize light or shallow cuts. Do NOT take big cuts. When you hands are protected and away from the router little bit, only do it.

Ways to use a Router Table to center edge-to-edge joints:

Have you ever asked yourself how to center edge-to-edge joints? You utilize this strategy for making strong tabletops, large panels, and even make edging to walk around your router table top.

Let's use an actual example of oak bordering on a MDF Router Table Top. The top is 1 1/8" thick. The oak edging is 1 1/8" thick.

Just how do we make sure a centered edge?

Decide on the tongue measurement. You have a 1/4" port cutter. You want the tongue thickness less than two times the cut. For that reason, the tongue density is a little less than 1/2". We make use of a 1/4" deepness of cut for this example.
We want a tongue that is less than 1/2" in density. Therefore, we understand that the rabbet on the Table Top is slightly more than 5/16" on both sides of a 1 1/8" thick piece.
Rabbet the leading with a rabbet bit with a birthing to create a 1/4" rabbet. You don't want to take a great deal during your first pass. Therefore, the depth of cut is established for 1/8" for your very first pass.
Establish the fencing so it is despite having the bearing of the rabbet bit.
Cut both top and base of the top. Take your time and go all the way around. Ensure the work surface is level on the Router Table Top. Or make use of the router in addition to the work surface.
Measure the density of the tongue. If it is larger than 1/2", after that readjust the deepness of cut. A router lift makes this easy. Keep in mind: you rout both sides; therefore make use of half the modification for each side.
Make your adjustment, rout the top as well as base again. The tongue's thickness is currently somewhat less than 1/2".
Change your rabbeting little bit with your 1/4" port cutter. I always detach the power source to the router prior to changing little bits!
Sit the rabbeted item on the router tabletop near the slot cutter. Increase the Router so all-time low of the slot cutter straightens with all-time low of the tongue. If the workpiece is big, you may need support.
Set the deepness of cut for the slot to around 3/16". Evaluate the port on the tongue. By the means, the Concierge Wire 7518 Router makes this a snap.
Given that the port cut is 1/4", the 2nd pass is not making use of the entire cutter. You obtain an exactly center slot that fits on the tongue.
As soon as the slot (groove) fits on the tongue, you prepare to set your last depth of the groove. The last depth of cut is somewhat more than 1/4" to permit glue.
Set your fencing for this last deepness. Keep in mind - make two passes with the slotter. This offers you an exact fit.
You can utilize this approach for any type of edge-to-edge joinery, such as table tops, panels, huge drawer fronts, as well as whenever you wish to sign up with swimsuits. You get best positioning and a rock-solid joint.


Let's utilize a real example of oak bordering on a MDF Router Table Top. Make sure the work surface is flat on the Router Table Top. Or utilize the router on top of the workpiece.
Sit the rabbeted item on the router tabletop near the port cutter. Raise the Router so the bottom of the port cutter lines up with the bottom of the tongue.
Here I make the split fence. It's main components are made from 4mm plate and a piece of 40/80 extrusion. It's easy to adjust and remove, the underside is covered in a semi slippery plastic to prevent metal on metal scuffing and scratching.Music by:Parasail by Silent Partner.Hers by Graffiti Mechanism.Ersatz Bossa by John Deley and the 41 Pla...